Thursday, December 6, 2007

relaxing at Broughton Isl-early sunrise leaving Brioughton Isl-Oily calm cruising down the coast-Lion Island in our sights- Captain Jack home.






with Cate at Coffs-captn snoozing-New sercicemens club at Camden Haven-great prawn meal- hanging loose at Broughton Isl.






entry to Yamba-Yamba Tavern-Sledges Hotel Iluka and sign-Full moon over Sledges Iluka






23rd Nov to 1st Dec 2007

In Yamba had Mechanic check engine over as the engine is now using a gallon of oil for every pint of fuel. Well almost and the barge we’re towing stocked with product to facilitate this consumption is slowing our progress. His opinion was that the only time a Perkins doesn’t blow smoke is when it’s run out of oil. Right. So we left Yamba with another $100 worth of monograde 40w. Back to Iluka to reacquaint ourselves with the Sedgers Reef Hotel no apostrophe.

24th Iluka

Met up with our great sailing buddies from our previous exploits, John and Marie, for lunch at the Sedgers Reef and drinks at their caravan and then more drinks at the beach before we weaved our way back to the boat in the early evening for a bit of R and R and sleep before our pre dawn start next morning. Managed to vote despite directions from a local. “Which is the quickest way to the school?” we enquired. “Are you walking or driving?” he replied. “Driving” we informed him. “Yup, that’s the quickest way”

25th Iluka to Coffs

Motor sailed all the way to Coffs. They ought to do something about the reliability of the East Coast Current. Capricious is the word that comes to mind. With us to Cape Byron, against us to Tacking Point, then with us, then dormant, then against us.

26th Coffs Harbour

Breakfast with friends. Then summoned up the Dunkirk Spirit and went off to a Telstra shop in an attempt to get connected again. Starting up a new wireless account ……maybe allow half an hour. Try 5 hours and then the bloke gave up and asked us to return at 5.30pm. Anyway bless him he persevered and got us back on the air. Had drinks to celebrate this accomplishment with Des and Cate as a fitting end to our day in Coffs.

26th to 30th Nov.

Basically beetled home via Trial Bay spending one night at each of Trial Bay, Camden Haven, Broughton Island and arriving in Pittwater on the evening of the 30th November. Spent the last 90 miles watching the rain radar and trying to avoid several ‘anvil-headed cumulo nimbus’. One of those days when you just want to get there.
.
Was great to arrive home and sail into Pittwater with a rum in hand and a feeling of great satisfaction that we have completed nearly 2,500 nautical miles. The satisfaction had nothing to do with getting the boat back and everything to do with the fact that no blood had been shed in the process. A touch of cabin fever maybe, a close encounter with a rock and a shark, along with a couple of questionable bits of navigation but no blood. Well not much anyway.

So now the boat is tethered to its new mooring in Pittwater and we have stopped listening to weather reports. We have also stopped searching for the next lateral mark, taken our eyes off the depth sounder, we wouldn’t have a clue if it’s high or low tide at the moment or what the range is. The strange noise in the night is no longer the anchor chain growling. It’s the nocturnal ravings of a demented possum.

We’ve learned a bit about overtightening stern glands, vented loops, fridge systems, sacrificial anodes (or lack thereof) and the importance of avoiding whales in the middle of the night. For the time being it will be good to spend time ashore.

We have been persuaded to get on a boat since returning however. This was to assist in moving it from outside the bar of the Newport Arms Hotel to outside the bar of the Royal Motor Yacht Club. And yes there is a thread that weaves its way through this narrative……….

“More wine for my friends…………….!”


Over and out
Nick and Pam (Captain Jack Sparrow and Curvier)

Monday, November 26, 2007

Going through the broardwater-the bedroom anchorage south stradbroke Isl-mayhem in the broadwater channels- lunch southport YC- our 10ft white Byron






tin can bay coast guard-feeding dolphins- wide bay bar-tangalooma- little ship club dunwich






21st to 23rd November Yamba
Now at Yamba revisiting the Pacific Hotel with a great view of the ocean and generally having some well needed R and R.

20th November Tuesday Byron to Iluka/Yamba
Another early start from Byron with the sun rising and off to Iluka some 51 nautical miles south. Great weather and current and ended up playing Rummy for most of the trip while Ray did the steering.
Breezed in through the Yamba Bar and eased our way round to the lovely little fishing settlement of Iluka and the most peaceful and calm bay. Walked around to the Coast Guard and had a chat and found out what the weather was doing for the next four days. What makes it even better still is the Sedges Reef pub which we spent a great lunch time in and a visit to the Fish co-op for a prawn dinner was even better still.

19th November Monday
Southport bar presented no bum clenching and now only three more bars to go over before home. Had a very pleasant motor down to Kingscliff and then hoisted the sails and motorsailed to Byron Bay. Nick saw a shark at one point and a school of dolphins passed jumping clear of the water. The 2knts of current we had with us was magical and to get to Byron at 3pm with the rest of the afternoon to relax made a real difference. A whale feeding her calf welcomed us into the Bay where we anchored for the night.
After anchoring Nick said I’m hot and said are you coming for a swim off the back of the boat. “Not on your life I said, don’t like the prospect of fronting a shark, don’t be silly he said and jumped in. After climbing out and pouring a gin and tonic he said “what’s that” pointing to something in the water a few meters from the boat. It turned out to be a 10foot White Pointer and swam lazily around the boat for at least an hour. Radioed the Coast Guard to let them know as there were a lot of swimmers beyond the breakers and not far from us. He said he would phone the lifeguards but nothing happened, no bells ringing or boats coming out to chase it away….glad I was in the boat and not in the water as it looked evil and just looking for a tender morsel..

Speaking from a personal point of view I doubt I shall ever jump off the back of a boat again. No matter how Paul Getty under the Warwick Farms it is. Not even in a freshwater lake in Sweden.
Referring to our ‘What shark was that?” reference guide and with the help of Pam’s 86 photos we reckon it was a Great White. That’s the colour I turned when I saw it. Yes even from the safety of the deck. The most worrying thing was then Pam rushing about the boat taking photographic evidence.
The Coast Guard was amusing. He wanted to know what sort of shark it was. “A big one” apparently wasn’t enough. The sucker fish were about the size of the mackerel Pam caught and this thing was about a third the length of the boat. The really creepy thing was that it circled the boat for 45 minutes before moving on.
Bollocks to anyone who thinks we’re at the top of the food chain.






18th November Sunday
Next moring we took up the anchor and gingerly proceeded to the port marker.
More bum clenching as the depth sounder spiraled down ward and when it got to 1.4 (we go aground at 1.4) we waited for the bump but slowly managed to inch forward and actually got past the port marker and proceeded very cautiously to the east cardinal mark with more very shallow depths recording before we got to deeper waters then it was a battle not to get mowed down by the stream of motor boat of all shapes and sizes and jet skis hurtling headlong at you and just swerving at the last moment. The Broadwater is no place for Dancing Light and genteel folk like us and we were extremely glad to arrive at the Southport Marina in one piece avoiding shallow depths and Kamakazi boat owners.
A most enjoyable evening was spent at the yacht club with our friends of boating fame 26 years ago.(they now drive a Prado and and caravan and only have to worry about the next camp site)……sounds relaxing to me!!!!!!!

melbourne cup day in the rain at garry's anchorage sandy strait- lunch with Destiny 3= tin can bay harbour and yacht club and local inhabitant






17TH Nov Saturday

A days sail from Mooloolabar across Morton bay saw us arrive in Tangalooma on Morton Island and a very picturesque spot with an unusual reef protection of sunken trawlers and tankers to form the shelter. Spent a very calm night in this anchorage with crystal clear waters and hundreds of star fish dotting the sandy bottom. Next morning we meandered our way south through a myriad of lateral marks and channels to a place called Dunwich which was one of the first settlements in QL D (then still NSW). We visited the cemetery of great historical interest and of more interest was the Small Ships Club where one could have a wee dram and lunch while sitting in the palm and flower filled gardens overlooking the expansive bay. A great find and enjoyed the day ON LAND.

Took off the next morning to head south to the formidable Canaipa Passage and the timing of tides and passages was critical as two sections got down to 0.9 meters so they had to be crossed just prior to high tide. Spoke to a friend sailor who was a day ahead and he said crossing the Southport bar he had buried the bow a few times and the 10 to 15 knot winds which were forecast ended up howling from the South East at 20knts and he spent a very uncomfortable 5 hours punching into it and sounded exhausted when he rang us as he is sailing his 42ft Catalina back to Sydney single handed……I think his last comment was……”.bloody boats, shan’t come up here again.” ( This was his third trip north and I think will be his last)

So we motored for four hours following the port and starboard markers and staying out of the way of all the plastic boats which threatened to mow us down or sink us with their wash as they speed by….batsards.All was well till we got to the Jumpin Pin Bar and you turn right to go down this wide water way with no marks. Following Lucas book straight down the centre and next there is no water under us and which direction to go…. Go left and right and then look around and no other boats where we were but all were over anchored along the beach which rang a few bells, so gingerly zig zagged our way across to what was the new channel and decided we’d had enough and would anchor for the day with the other hundred boats who were all out for the weekend…….Pitt st boat alley. At least we were safe and still floating. So much for not having a wine with lunch…..after the bum clenching a good Chardonnay with lunch was much needed, unfortunately the stream of cruisers passing within a couple of meters sending out tidal waves and wash straight into our chardonnay was very unsporting. Went ashore in the afternoon for a wander and approached a likely looking local couple to find out where the hell we go from here as both the GPS and Lucas was wrong and the sands had shifted since both were published. He laughed and said “ yea mate does that”, jist go down to that here port marker and turn right to the East cardinal and youse should be okay.

4th to 12th Sandy Strait to Tin Can Bay
Spent several days in Gary’s Anchorage trying to avoid the rain seeping down the back of our necks. Had a memorable Melbourne cup lunch while it rained like a pissing cow. I won the best hat competition because there were just the two of us and Pam didn’t wear a hat.
Spent the time here trying to catch mudcrabs which was wonderfully successful in that we got six. Unfortunately they were only the size of a butch prawn.
Down to our last bottle of charddy we fled to Tin Can Bay. A delightful spot which will be hard to leave. We are equidistant from The TCB Yacht club and the Sleepy Lagoon Hotel.
The Sandy Strait was more of a navigational challenge than we remember from previous experience and we now await the abating of the wind and swell so we can get across the
Wide Bay Bar and make all speed for southern waters. Him

More Bum clenching….. hopefully they will be rather smaller by the time we return to Sydney. Nearly made myself sick worrying about going over the Wide Bay Bar as spent some time at the Coast Guard Station and the stories they told of the terror and death wreaked by boats crossing when they shouldn’t and flipping them over backwards with the poor trawlerman trapped in the wheel house and drowned was enough to want to get on a plane and fly home. The night before we crossed we sailed up to Inskip Point with 15 other boats all waiting their chance to battle the Bar. The wind was still howling from the South East which was not a good sign and the seas still sloppy as we took to our rock and rolly bunks. Fortunately 5am the next morning awoke to mild conditions and the sound of many anchors being raised and engines warmed as the flotilla readied themselves for the onslaught. With stomach churning and bum clenched so tight that I’m surprised it hasn’t disappeared we took off. The Crossing was not as bad as I thought but very lumpy and confused seas and would not have likde it any rougher. Goodbye Wide Bay Bar, and good riddance. Days sail to Mooloolaba was quite good and the seas weren’t too bad so made it to the marina by 4pm and safe anchorage to catch up with friends and a fun night.

early morning departure-metre long mackerel..at last-sunset on Mary river-miserable wet day





4th to 12th Sandy Strait to Tin Can Bay
Spent several days in Gary’s Anchorage trying to avoid the rain seeping down the back of our necks. Had a memorable Melbourne cup lunch while it rained like a pissing cow. I won the best hat competition because there were just the two of us and Pam didn’t wear a hat.
Spent the time here trying to catch mudcrabs which was wonderfully successful in that we got six. Unfortunately they were only the size of a butch prawn.
Down to our last bottle of charddy we fled to Tin Can Bay. A delightful spot which will be hard to leave. We are equidistant from The TCB Yacht club and the Sleepy Lagoon Hotel.
The Sandy Strait was more of a navigational challenge than we remember from previous experience and we now await the abating of the wind and swell so we can get across the
Wide Bay Bar and make all speed for southern waters. Him

More Bum clenching….. hopefully they will be rather smaller by the time we return to Sydney. Nearly made myself sick worrying about going over the Wide Bay Bar as spent some time at the Coast Guard Station and the stories they told of the terror and death wreaked by boats crossing when they shouldn’t and flipping them over backwards with the poor trawlerman trapped in the wheel house and drowned was enough to want to get on a plane and fly home. The night before we crossed we sailed up to Inskip Point with 15 other boats all waiting their chance to battle the Bar. The wind was still howling from the South East which was not a good sign and the seas still sloppy as we took to our rock and rolly bunks. Fortunately 5am the next morning awoke to mild conditions and the sound of many anchors being raised and engines warmed as the flotilla readied themselves for the onslaught. With stomach churning and bum clenched so tight that I’m surprised it hasn’t disappeared we took off. The Crossing was not as bad as I thought but very lumpy and confused seas and would not have likde it any rougher. Goodbye Wide Bay Bar, and good riddance. Days sail to Mooloolaba was quite good and the seas weren’t too bad so made it to the marina by 4pm and safe anchorage to catch up with friends and a fun night.


4th November Bundaberg to Mary River entrance top of Sandy Strait

Up again at sparrows and with 5 other yachts are making a dash for the shelter of the Sandy Strait from Bundy as a southerly change is on the way and we want to be tucked up in the sheltered waters before it hits. Had a great sail with goose winged rig and averaged 6.5 knts and no engine which was very relaxing and quiet for a change. Got to the turn off to Mary River and deciding we were both tired and the wind was really coming up, headed for the calmer waters of the river and were rewarded with a most spectacular sunset and peaceful anchorage.


small crabs- pancake creekand backwater-local eagle- gladstone harbour tankers.





3rd November Pancake Creek to Bundaberg

Up at sparrows, which for us is even before they get up at 4am and on the road so to speak by 4.45am and sailing is supposed to be relaxing!!!!!!!!!

Pancake creek was a delight, beautiful little bay well protected with sandbars all around and a lovely beach with Palm Trees. Went ashore after navigating the channel to get into the inside anchorage to set the crab net amongst the mangroves, before wandering around ashore.
To our surprise after leaving the beach and walking a few paces inland a whole mars like vista opened up before us. A vast area of dead trees where it looked like the salt has been seeping up and killing the trees along a strip adjacent to the shoreline. The other interesting discovery was the Sea Eagles nest in one of these dead trees. Spent quite some time sitting very still to watch the activities and was rewarded with a bird landing on the nest and then got a great shot of it departing with a fish in its claw.

First morning was one crab in net (2inches long) so tossed back and then the next time we had 5 in the net but alas also too small to keep.

On our journey to Bundaberg hooked two Mackerel and managed to land the second one which was quite a size, nearly 1 metre long. So filled a huge container with fresh fillets and cooked one that night . It was delicious, and only took me 3 and ½ months to catch, but well worth waiting for and most needed as supplies were getting low.

TESTRA CARD PACKED UP SO HAD TO WAIT TILL COFFS HARBOUR TO PICK UP NEW ONE AND GET BACK ON LINE……….AND NO WE HAVEN’T SUNK!!!

Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Well worn path to yacht club-farewell to rosslyn bay-sailed over this-clipped the fence post-this is 2.5 metres above sea level at LWS






Wednesday 31st October

One of the more navigationally challenging days. We came through the Narrows north of Gladstone which involves taking the boat over land that at low tide is 2.5 metres above sea level. It’s all a bit counter-intuitive really so I delegated the brain work to Pam which at least meant if we went aground and got stuck for three weeks I had someone to blame. She did a splendid job and despite dragging the keel though the odd cow pat and clipping a fence post or two we emerged at Gladstone.
We’d been warned about plagues of sandflies . However with most of Woolworths stock of mosquito coils and citronella candles ablaze we kept the insects at bay. A passing farmer mistook us for a catholic church and wanted to light a candle.
Not much happening on the fishing front. Seems easier to go to the fish co-op or Woolies.
Next stop Bundaberg

Friday, October 26, 2007

Tanker City off Mackay, Parking lot at Mid Percy, Sandfly Alley Island Head Creek, hard rock best missed, Recovery at Capricorn Cruising Yacht Club.





Saturday 27th Oct
So after more engineering in Mackay we now have a ‘vented loop’ in the engine cooling water system. Yes, yes I know all you budding marine diesel engineers will be asking why we didn’t already have one. Well it had something to do with the old eutectic plumbing and was overlooked in the last engineering project, all right?. So stop being a bunch of smart arses. Remember no one likes a smart arse.
Left Mackay at 05.30 last Wednesday and of course no breeze and the current against us meant we spent twelve hours listening to every noise coming from the engine. Seawater in the cylinders can’t improve a diesel’s longevity.
Middle Percy is a top spot but of course that means it’s also like a parking lot for cruising boats. For the boating minded there was also a 6 metre tidal range which places certain demands on anchoring.
Rolled around all night and left along with 10 other boats for Island Head Creek looking forward to a more comfortable night.
Pleasant enough sail in the afternoon after a morning spent motoring into the standard 2.5 knots of counter current.
Needed a bit of care entering the creek between the rocks and a hard place but the hospitality shown by the locals was immense. Clouds of sandflies greeted us on arrival and stayed with us until we escaped at 5.30am the following morning. A swim would have been nice but there’s the box-jellyfish, Iragandji and of course crocodiles. A walk on the beach maybe? But you must consider stone fish, toe-cutter fish and the stinging Gympie tree. All right look it up. So we took our chances with the sandflies. They seem altogether less likely to be fatal.
Yesterday usual stuff, current against us all morning. Gave thanks to the weather god when finally some breeze came up around midday. He over shot a bit as it built to 20-25. Keppel Bay is shallow which makes for interesting seas. Notice how that word ‘interesting’ crops up again and again. Went round the back of North Keppel to get the main down. This was where we nearly ended our cruise. In the process of getting the main sorted we’d edged a bit closer to the rocks than we thought. So when we resumed our track the isolated rock off the S.W. corner was dead in our path. Fortunately it was low tide and there was just enough wash around it to announce its presence. The GPS suggests we were only a few metres from disaster. Would have been a bit embarrassing to scuttle the boat on a rock marked on all the charts.
Surfed into Rosslyn Bay on breaking waves and redeemed ourselves by sailing under bare poles neatly into the marina berth.
Today we get to change the oil yet again. To be sure to be sure. Pam goes up the mast to do a check of the top of the rig as we found a split pin had failed at the bottom of the forestay. If she’s well behaved I’ll let her come down again.
Next decision is where to from here. The Narrows through to Gladstone is famous for sandflies and mosquitoes and if it blows like a bastard from the N.E. Pancake Creek and 1770 aren’t terribly appealing so it might be straight through to Bundaberg.ober